Vegetable Gardening Tips
With the costs of living rising all the time, it may be possible to save money and increase your family's health at the same time by growing vegetables in your backyard.
It's a good idea to choose your favourite vegetables to grow and plan beds for early, middle of the season and late varieties.
Most vegetables require at least 6 hours of sunlight per day, some need 8. Some quick growers like lettuce and radish can be grown between the rows of plants that take longer to mature, like beet or corn, thus making full use of the area available.
Throughout dry periods, vegetable gardens need extra watering. Most vegetables benefit from an inch or more of water each week, especially when they are fruiting.
During the growing season watch for insect pests. If you discover a bug problem early it will be much easier, but be careful to not use pesticides once the vegetable are close to being picked unless it becomes an absolute necessity. Organic gardening is one healthy and environment-friendly option. Once you have reaped your crop, put the vegetable waste into your compost pile so that it can be recycled for next spring.
It is important to protect your vegetable garden from wild animals looking for a tasty treat. Make sure your garden is surrounded by a fence that will keep out dogs, rabbits, and other animals. The harm done by wandering animals during one season can equal the cost of a fence. A fence also can serve as a frame for peas, beans, tomatoes, and other crops that need support.
Protection is needed in order for your vegetable garden to yield a bountiful harvest. Hard work will pay dividends if necessary precautions have been made.
Vegetable Gardening Tips
Wednesday, 21 May 2008
Sunday, 4 May 2008
How To Really Start The Vegetable Garden
First of all, draw a plan (to a scale) of the ground at your disposal. Make allowances for paths, borders, etc. It's fascinatingly interesting after you get started. Next, take inventory of your likes and dislikes in vegetables. Put down on paper every vegetable you wish to grow. Then go back to your plan and mark out a definite space or number of rows for the different vegetables. Select early, midseason and late sorts of these vegetables, which you like best. This will give you a constant supply of them. When garden operations start, be sure to follow your plan. A disregard of your carefully planned program may easily spoil results. I can not lay too much emphasis upon this point, since most gardens fail to yield satisfactory crops for lack of adherence to the original plan.
Study the peculiar characteristics of certain vegetables and utilize them to best advantage. Some vegetables thrive even in partially shaded positions, while others require lots of sunshine for best results. Some of the finest lettuce I ever saw was grown between rows of early peas. The two-foot tall pea vines, rows running east and west would shelter Wayahead, Black Seeded Simpson, etc., which form perfect heads.
Though the pea rows were standing only 2 1/2 feet apart, the lettuce did splendidly since peas root deeply while lettuce is a shallow, rooting plant. Keeping the lettuce row free from weeds gives additional cultivation to the pea. vines, which will, under such conditions, stand considerable dryweather and still bear heavy crops.
A good many vegetables are of exceedingly slow growth during the seedling stage of development. Take advantage of this by utilizing space between such rows for quick-growing crops. For example, sow beet seed by middle of April and set young lettuce plants between the rows. By the time the beet tops develop, the lettuce will be used.
A distance of 20 inches between the rows is ample for most vegetables in a carefully managed home garden. Tall peas, tomatoes and corn should be allowed at least 2 to 2 1/2 feet and should be staked for best results. The proper thinning out of all, kinds of vegetables is advisable. Do not permit root crops to crowd each other in the row. Thin out radishes, beets, onions, turnips, etc., to stand about from 2 to 4 inches apart in the row, according to variety. Beans will yield more and better pods if plants stand 4 to 6 inches apart in the row.
Where space is rather limited; the French method of intensive cultivation may be employed. Here is how it is practiced:
Combine a packet of spinach seed and carrot seed, mixing seeds thoroughly. Make your row uniformly half an inch deep and sow this mixture in the row. Cover, and soon the quick-growing spinach seed will break the crust, making it easier for the weak carrot seedlings to see the light of day. In four weeks, the spinach may be "thinned" to make room for the slowly developing carrots. In six weeks the spinach -will be all used up, and the carrots will find room to develop. If an early carrot, such as Early Scarlet Horn, is selected, this will be ready for the table use by July 15th, when the last may be pulled to make room for endive, celery, late cabbage or any other fall crop.
This method may be employed with quite a number of vegetables. Care should be taken in experimenting along these lines, that kinds are combined having seed of about the same coarseness, but possessing different characteristics as to growth. Lettuce and radishes go well together, so do radishes and parsley; the last named being a exceedingly slow grower. The French gardeners plant extra early radishes, midseason lettuce and turnips` in, the same row, at one operation. This gives about as ideal a succession as can be worked out.
As to the actual location of the different rows and crops, here is a good rule to, follow:
If the land runs east and west the taller plantings should be on the north, so that the light will not be shut off from the lower growing vegetables. Corn grows so much taller than anything else cultivated that it should, if possible, be placed in the. rear. In front of it the few hills of early potatoes which it is possible to grow on a city lot may be planted, as they are the least ornamental of vegetables.
Cabbage and cauliflowers grow of corresponding height, and may be planted side by side and given the same treatment. Tomatoes may follow the potatoes, and so on in the order of height until the front of the garden is reached, and such ornamental vegetables as remain may be placed.
Source: http://www.backyardgardener.com/veg/indexkitchen.html
Study the peculiar characteristics of certain vegetables and utilize them to best advantage. Some vegetables thrive even in partially shaded positions, while others require lots of sunshine for best results. Some of the finest lettuce I ever saw was grown between rows of early peas. The two-foot tall pea vines, rows running east and west would shelter Wayahead, Black Seeded Simpson, etc., which form perfect heads.
Though the pea rows were standing only 2 1/2 feet apart, the lettuce did splendidly since peas root deeply while lettuce is a shallow, rooting plant. Keeping the lettuce row free from weeds gives additional cultivation to the pea. vines, which will, under such conditions, stand considerable dryweather and still bear heavy crops.
A good many vegetables are of exceedingly slow growth during the seedling stage of development. Take advantage of this by utilizing space between such rows for quick-growing crops. For example, sow beet seed by middle of April and set young lettuce plants between the rows. By the time the beet tops develop, the lettuce will be used.
A distance of 20 inches between the rows is ample for most vegetables in a carefully managed home garden. Tall peas, tomatoes and corn should be allowed at least 2 to 2 1/2 feet and should be staked for best results. The proper thinning out of all, kinds of vegetables is advisable. Do not permit root crops to crowd each other in the row. Thin out radishes, beets, onions, turnips, etc., to stand about from 2 to 4 inches apart in the row, according to variety. Beans will yield more and better pods if plants stand 4 to 6 inches apart in the row.
Where space is rather limited; the French method of intensive cultivation may be employed. Here is how it is practiced:
Combine a packet of spinach seed and carrot seed, mixing seeds thoroughly. Make your row uniformly half an inch deep and sow this mixture in the row. Cover, and soon the quick-growing spinach seed will break the crust, making it easier for the weak carrot seedlings to see the light of day. In four weeks, the spinach may be "thinned" to make room for the slowly developing carrots. In six weeks the spinach -will be all used up, and the carrots will find room to develop. If an early carrot, such as Early Scarlet Horn, is selected, this will be ready for the table use by July 15th, when the last may be pulled to make room for endive, celery, late cabbage or any other fall crop.
This method may be employed with quite a number of vegetables. Care should be taken in experimenting along these lines, that kinds are combined having seed of about the same coarseness, but possessing different characteristics as to growth. Lettuce and radishes go well together, so do radishes and parsley; the last named being a exceedingly slow grower. The French gardeners plant extra early radishes, midseason lettuce and turnips` in, the same row, at one operation. This gives about as ideal a succession as can be worked out.
As to the actual location of the different rows and crops, here is a good rule to, follow:
If the land runs east and west the taller plantings should be on the north, so that the light will not be shut off from the lower growing vegetables. Corn grows so much taller than anything else cultivated that it should, if possible, be placed in the. rear. In front of it the few hills of early potatoes which it is possible to grow on a city lot may be planted, as they are the least ornamental of vegetables.
Cabbage and cauliflowers grow of corresponding height, and may be planted side by side and given the same treatment. Tomatoes may follow the potatoes, and so on in the order of height until the front of the garden is reached, and such ornamental vegetables as remain may be placed.
Source: http://www.backyardgardener.com/veg/indexkitchen.html
Tuesday, 22 April 2008
Planting your vegetables
Planting your vegetables
Soils should not be prepared for planting when too wet or too dry. If soil sticks to your shoes or shovel, it is too wet. Have your soil tested for the amount of fertilizer or manure to apply before planting. A routine soil test gives information on any lime requirement, phosphorous and potassium needs and estimated nitrogen requirements. Rake or harrow the planting area immediately after tilling or spading. A firm, fine seedbed is best, particularly for small-seeded crops, but packing the soil too much could promote crusting of the soil surface and damage emerging seedlings.
If you irrigate your garden with a sprinkler from overhead, it's best to water early in the day so plants can dry off before night falls. Foliage that stays wet for long periods of time is susceptible to leaf diseases, fungi that grow on leaves, tender stems, and flower buds.
Light is another important factor to consider when you plan your garden. Sunlight -- or some type of light -- provides the energy that plants need to turn water and carbon dioxide into the sugar they use for food. The growing season is the length of time that your area has the conditions plants need to reach maturity and produce a crop. The growing season is measured in terms of the number of days between the last frost in spring and the first frost in fall. In general terms, these two dates mark the beginning and end of the time in which plants grow from seed to maturity. Some areas never have frost; instead, their dry season serves as "winter." The length of your growing season is totally dependent on your local climate.
Even if you have started many of your seeds indoors to extend your growing season some seeds should always start outdoors since they are sensitive to transplant shock. If you have been to a garden center or nursery lately you can get an idea by what types of plants can be transplanted easily. Perusing the seed packet aisles is an exercise in regressive optimism. One could easily conclude that the Vegetable Growers Association were conspiring against the home gardener and in bed with the large box stores. For those who struggle with physical labour you still don't have an excuse for you could easily start a no-dig garden or even begin straw bale gardening. There are quite a few options available to those who are unable to create traditional soil vegetable gardens.
The more you look around, the broader your options become. There have been instances of extensive porch gardens planted entirely in discarded containers: milk crates, styrofoam coolers, even an old toy box. You need a pot or container. "You can use just about anything: a window box, a basket, a wide bowl planter," says Harmony Picciuca, who runs a demonstration garden at the Garfield Park Conservatory where you can learn about growing greens and many other vegetables.
Soils should not be prepared for planting when too wet or too dry. If soil sticks to your shoes or shovel, it is too wet. Have your soil tested for the amount of fertilizer or manure to apply before planting. A routine soil test gives information on any lime requirement, phosphorous and potassium needs and estimated nitrogen requirements. Rake or harrow the planting area immediately after tilling or spading. A firm, fine seedbed is best, particularly for small-seeded crops, but packing the soil too much could promote crusting of the soil surface and damage emerging seedlings.
If you irrigate your garden with a sprinkler from overhead, it's best to water early in the day so plants can dry off before night falls. Foliage that stays wet for long periods of time is susceptible to leaf diseases, fungi that grow on leaves, tender stems, and flower buds.
Light is another important factor to consider when you plan your garden. Sunlight -- or some type of light -- provides the energy that plants need to turn water and carbon dioxide into the sugar they use for food. The growing season is the length of time that your area has the conditions plants need to reach maturity and produce a crop. The growing season is measured in terms of the number of days between the last frost in spring and the first frost in fall. In general terms, these two dates mark the beginning and end of the time in which plants grow from seed to maturity. Some areas never have frost; instead, their dry season serves as "winter." The length of your growing season is totally dependent on your local climate.
Even if you have started many of your seeds indoors to extend your growing season some seeds should always start outdoors since they are sensitive to transplant shock. If you have been to a garden center or nursery lately you can get an idea by what types of plants can be transplanted easily. Perusing the seed packet aisles is an exercise in regressive optimism. One could easily conclude that the Vegetable Growers Association were conspiring against the home gardener and in bed with the large box stores. For those who struggle with physical labour you still don't have an excuse for you could easily start a no-dig garden or even begin straw bale gardening. There are quite a few options available to those who are unable to create traditional soil vegetable gardens.
The more you look around, the broader your options become. There have been instances of extensive porch gardens planted entirely in discarded containers: milk crates, styrofoam coolers, even an old toy box. You need a pot or container. "You can use just about anything: a window box, a basket, a wide bowl planter," says Harmony Picciuca, who runs a demonstration garden at the Garfield Park Conservatory where you can learn about growing greens and many other vegetables.
Sunday, 13 April 2008
Vegetable Gardening
Vegetable gardening
Vegetable gardening is great to get involved in and makes your cooking taste a great deal better when it’s grown from your own soil. Vegetable gardening is not for the couch potato as it takes a bit of study to start and maintain a productive garden. Vegetable gardening is one type of home gardening which not only provides great satisfaction; it also helps put a dent in your food bill. A home vegetable garden is as easy as following a few simple steps.
Vegetable gardening is very similar to growing herbs or flowers in your garden and if the proper procedures are taken and proper care has been given to the plants, they will flourish and provide you with great tasting vegetables. Vegetable gardening is also ideal for artistically expressing yourself in a unique way. If you have a favorite, signature color or perhaps even three or four, consider planting based on these colors.
Organic gardening is one of the most rewarding types of vegetable gardening because it allows you to garden with the highest possible benefit. That benefit is your health. Organic gardening doesn’t have to be complicated or expensive. Anyone with a patch of soil and some inspiration can grow healthy chemical free vegetables . Organic vegetable gardening is growing organic fruit and vegetables without using harmful chemicals. You must work with nature to establish a balance of rich healthy soil.
Soil is the foundation for plants which is why so much of organic gardening focuses on improving soil. A sure-fire way to improve your soil is by adding lots of organic matter such as compost. Soil moisture and temperature conditions are favorable for decomposition of organic matter that is turned under in the fall. Disease organisms, insects and perennial weeds can be reduced by tilling in the fall.
Tomatoes, cucumbers and bell peppers do well in plant containers. For vegetables like carrots or green beans, you'll want to use narrower, longer containers. Tomato plants require room to spread even though you may have them contained by cages. I have found in 4x6 raised bed 6 tomato plants is sufficent allowing enough room for spreading branches and room to plant smaller plants among them.
Grow pest resistant varieties if available to help reduce losses without use of chemical pesticides. There are some naturally occurring materials available that can be used as pesticides such as diatomaceous earth, and pyrethrin. Growing a vegetable garden is an integral part of frugal living. There are so many today who for various reasons are incorporating more frugal living tips into their everyday routine.
Growing vegetables in containers means you can grow your vegetables on a deck or patio, or even indoors using special grow lights. Because of container gardening, we can now grow our own vegetables no matter where we live.
vegetable gardening
Vegetable gardening is great to get involved in and makes your cooking taste a great deal better when it’s grown from your own soil. Vegetable gardening is not for the couch potato as it takes a bit of study to start and maintain a productive garden. Vegetable gardening is one type of home gardening which not only provides great satisfaction; it also helps put a dent in your food bill. A home vegetable garden is as easy as following a few simple steps.
Vegetable gardening is very similar to growing herbs or flowers in your garden and if the proper procedures are taken and proper care has been given to the plants, they will flourish and provide you with great tasting vegetables. Vegetable gardening is also ideal for artistically expressing yourself in a unique way. If you have a favorite, signature color or perhaps even three or four, consider planting based on these colors.
Organic gardening is one of the most rewarding types of vegetable gardening because it allows you to garden with the highest possible benefit. That benefit is your health. Organic gardening doesn’t have to be complicated or expensive. Anyone with a patch of soil and some inspiration can grow healthy chemical free vegetables . Organic vegetable gardening is growing organic fruit and vegetables without using harmful chemicals. You must work with nature to establish a balance of rich healthy soil.
Soil is the foundation for plants which is why so much of organic gardening focuses on improving soil. A sure-fire way to improve your soil is by adding lots of organic matter such as compost. Soil moisture and temperature conditions are favorable for decomposition of organic matter that is turned under in the fall. Disease organisms, insects and perennial weeds can be reduced by tilling in the fall.
Tomatoes, cucumbers and bell peppers do well in plant containers. For vegetables like carrots or green beans, you'll want to use narrower, longer containers. Tomato plants require room to spread even though you may have them contained by cages. I have found in 4x6 raised bed 6 tomato plants is sufficent allowing enough room for spreading branches and room to plant smaller plants among them.
Grow pest resistant varieties if available to help reduce losses without use of chemical pesticides. There are some naturally occurring materials available that can be used as pesticides such as diatomaceous earth, and pyrethrin. Growing a vegetable garden is an integral part of frugal living. There are so many today who for various reasons are incorporating more frugal living tips into their everyday routine.
Growing vegetables in containers means you can grow your vegetables on a deck or patio, or even indoors using special grow lights. Because of container gardening, we can now grow our own vegetables no matter where we live.
vegetable gardening
Vegetable Gardening
Welcome to my vegetable gardening blog. Here you will learn some tips on vegatable gardening which will help you get the best from your garde,
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