Herbs have been around since time immemorial and served different kinds of purposes. They have been used to treat illness and flavour cooking; they were even believed to have magical powers. Do you want to have your own herb garden? Here are a few ideas on how to establish an herb garden.
Plan your garden.
Consider the herbs you want to plant. Think about their types. Would you like annuals, biennials or perennials?
How much space will they occupy in your garden? If you want, you can purchase a book that can give you the right information on what specific plants you are planning to grow.
List or draw your garden on paper first. Separate the annuals from the perennials so when the time comes that you have to pull out the annuals, you won't be disturbing the perennials. Perennials can be planted on the edge of your garden so when it is time to till your garden they won't be in danger of getting dug up.
Another thing to remember is that you have to plant the tall ones at the back and the shorter ones in front. Also, provide your plants with enough space to grow. Proper position shall help you in this area.
If you would rather keep herbs out of your garden (and some are quite invasive) you could have herb pots. These are large containers with three or more outlets for the herbs. Fill the pot up to the first outlet and plant it before continuing on with the filling and planting process. Usually, the herb that requires the most water is planted in the bottom hole, while the variety that requires the least, goes in the highest hole.
Some Design Ideas
You can consider having a square herb bed. You can have your square bed divided into four by two paths crossing at mid point measuring 3 feet. You can border it with stone or brick. A wooden ladder may also do the trick. You can lay it down on your garden and plant your herbs between its rungs. You can also choose to have a wagon wheel bed. Planting here is like planting with the wooden ladders. Plant your herbs in between the wagon wheel's wedges.
Get Your Plants Growing
Of course, different plants have different needs, but many of them require alkaline soil. This is the reason why you have to determine the herbs you want to plant in the planning stage. This can more or less help you find out how you should care for your plants. If you germinate your herbs from seeds, remember to follow the directions on the packet for soil, watering and temperature.
Herbs are some of the easiest plants to grow. You just have to provide them with an effective drainage, sunlight, enough humidity or moisture and fertile soil. Even with just minimally meeting these requirements they will be bound produce a good harvest.
Sunday, 12 October 2008
Sunday, 5 October 2008
Vegetable Gardening The Organic Way
Because it is cost effective and they are able to produce almost the same yield of crops, more farmers are getting into organic vegetable gardening. You must first understand the organic vegetable gardening principles before you can do this in your own garden. It is forbidden to use fertilizers, nutrients or pesticides in organic vegetable gardening. Nature is your partner here because you will be using two things to make it all work namely sunlight and water. The ideal area and adequate drainage must be provided since we don't produce these ourselves.
Using compost heap from leftover food, chipped bark, garden compost, leaf moulds and manure which you can mix together and then spread throughout your garden can encourage the crops to grow, aside from sunlight and water. Manure is sold in stores so you don't have to scoop this from the toilet so don't feel queasy, also chickens are great to have - just let them roam around in the garden. Dead animals or meat products are used by some people but you can't put these in the soil. To help fertilize your garden, leave them for a couple of weeks in the bin and maggots will soon appear which can be used.
Bringing various minerals to the surface and providing better drainage as it digs deep into the ground and aerates the soil, is what makes the earthworm is another helpful creature. Experts say that the casting this long pink colored creature leaves behind is five times as rich in nitrogen phosphorous and potassium. You will be able to buy this from almost any gardening store or garden center.
Organic gardening is a challenge because pests such as army worms, crickets, gypsy moth caterpillars, slugs and squash bugs are unwanted guests. Despite the fact that at one time people used fertilizer to kill them, the toad, which is known to eat more almost every type of insect it is the best weapon in an organic setting. It is not in the toad's diet if you have caterpillars or spiders lurking in the garden so get a bird.
As long as you set the ideal environment for them, you don't have to buy a toad or a bird from the pet store because they may come in to your home. Erecting a bird house or a small pond means you will have some new occupants protecting your garden within days. The job could be done by insect killers such as the preying mantis and the ladybug as they mark their territory and eat anything that dares enter their domain.
Rosemary, sage or thyme can be used to protect your vegetables against butterflies and marigolds protect vegetables against nematodes. But, despite all the flowers and creatures that nature has to offer, crop rotation is seen as the best way to keep the soil fertile. Alternate between the kind of vegetable planted for this season and another then return to the first after this one is harvested. with some practice you can harvest the vegetables you have planted weeks ago.
Using compost heap from leftover food, chipped bark, garden compost, leaf moulds and manure which you can mix together and then spread throughout your garden can encourage the crops to grow, aside from sunlight and water. Manure is sold in stores so you don't have to scoop this from the toilet so don't feel queasy, also chickens are great to have - just let them roam around in the garden. Dead animals or meat products are used by some people but you can't put these in the soil. To help fertilize your garden, leave them for a couple of weeks in the bin and maggots will soon appear which can be used.
Bringing various minerals to the surface and providing better drainage as it digs deep into the ground and aerates the soil, is what makes the earthworm is another helpful creature. Experts say that the casting this long pink colored creature leaves behind is five times as rich in nitrogen phosphorous and potassium. You will be able to buy this from almost any gardening store or garden center.
Organic gardening is a challenge because pests such as army worms, crickets, gypsy moth caterpillars, slugs and squash bugs are unwanted guests. Despite the fact that at one time people used fertilizer to kill them, the toad, which is known to eat more almost every type of insect it is the best weapon in an organic setting. It is not in the toad's diet if you have caterpillars or spiders lurking in the garden so get a bird.
As long as you set the ideal environment for them, you don't have to buy a toad or a bird from the pet store because they may come in to your home. Erecting a bird house or a small pond means you will have some new occupants protecting your garden within days. The job could be done by insect killers such as the preying mantis and the ladybug as they mark their territory and eat anything that dares enter their domain.
Rosemary, sage or thyme can be used to protect your vegetables against butterflies and marigolds protect vegetables against nematodes. But, despite all the flowers and creatures that nature has to offer, crop rotation is seen as the best way to keep the soil fertile. Alternate between the kind of vegetable planted for this season and another then return to the first after this one is harvested. with some practice you can harvest the vegetables you have planted weeks ago.
Thursday, 5 June 2008
Home made recipes to deal with garden pests
Garden Pests
Garden pests
Home made recipes to help you to deal with unwanted 'critters'!
Horticultural oil sprays have been commercially available for a long time, they work by smothering the insects and mites they come in contact with, preventing disease-causing pests from destroying your favorite plants. I hate to walk out in my garden in the morning, and find my roses with great holes in their leaves. It can be quite soul destroying.
Aphids, scale insects, and other insects that stay on a plant, are particularly susceptible to oil sprays. Unfortunately, grasshoppers and insects that take a bite and fly away, are not usually affected.
When using any spray, remember that it will kill beneficial insects as well as pests, and make sure you only spray when you know that insects are present on your plants. Oils can also burn plant leaves especially in hot summer months, so before spraying an entire plant, always spray a few leaves and then check back the next day for burning.
For best results, remember to spray the underside of leaves as well as the topside.
Here are recipes for 2 oil sprays to make from your own ingredients:
Basic Oil Spray.
1 cup of vegetable oil ( safflower, corn, soybean, or canola)
1 tablespoon dishwashing liquid.
Place oil and water in a jar or empty plastic bottle .
( Squeezable bottles make for easy pouring and measuring.)
Take one tablespoon of oil mixture as above, then add
2 cups of water.
Place the solution in a spray bottle, and spray your plants. As you know, oil and water do not mix well, so shake the spray bottle as you are using it, to keep the solution well mixed. Repeat the treatment in seven to ten days, if necessary.
Alcohol oil spray.
To increase the effectiveness of the basic oil spray addsome isopropyl alcohol to the mixture.
An alcohol and water solution is lethal to many insects.
1 cup alcohol
1 teaspoon vegetable oil
1 quart water.
Mix ingredients together and place in spray bottle, spray as necessary.
DO NOT DRINK!!!
Flour Spray.
My grandmother used to use a flour spray as she said it was a good way to kill many pest insects. There wasn't any chemical sprays available to her in those days.
Flour dust turns into a sticky substance that can hold a pest like a sticky trap.
Many insects will eat it, and the flour stops up their digestive tracts. To get more flour onto your plants try spraying it on:
2-4 tablespoons wheat or potato flour
½ teaspoon dishwashing liquid
1 quart water.
Mix well and place in spray bottle, spray on plant and leaves.
Ena Clewes is an author of short stories and is an avid Organic Gardener.Visit Ena's websites at: http://organicgardengardening.com and http://gothicandvictoriangardening.com
Ena has just written an Organic Gardening book available at http://www.lulu.com/content/1725463or on her website.
Garden pests
Wednesday, 21 May 2008
Vegetable Gardening Tips
Vegetable Gardening Tips
With the costs of living rising all the time, it may be possible to save money and increase your family's health at the same time by growing vegetables in your backyard.
It's a good idea to choose your favourite vegetables to grow and plan beds for early, middle of the season and late varieties.
Most vegetables require at least 6 hours of sunlight per day, some need 8. Some quick growers like lettuce and radish can be grown between the rows of plants that take longer to mature, like beet or corn, thus making full use of the area available.
Throughout dry periods, vegetable gardens need extra watering. Most vegetables benefit from an inch or more of water each week, especially when they are fruiting.
During the growing season watch for insect pests. If you discover a bug problem early it will be much easier, but be careful to not use pesticides once the vegetable are close to being picked unless it becomes an absolute necessity. Organic gardening is one healthy and environment-friendly option. Once you have reaped your crop, put the vegetable waste into your compost pile so that it can be recycled for next spring.
It is important to protect your vegetable garden from wild animals looking for a tasty treat. Make sure your garden is surrounded by a fence that will keep out dogs, rabbits, and other animals. The harm done by wandering animals during one season can equal the cost of a fence. A fence also can serve as a frame for peas, beans, tomatoes, and other crops that need support.
Protection is needed in order for your vegetable garden to yield a bountiful harvest. Hard work will pay dividends if necessary precautions have been made.
Vegetable Gardening Tips
With the costs of living rising all the time, it may be possible to save money and increase your family's health at the same time by growing vegetables in your backyard.
It's a good idea to choose your favourite vegetables to grow and plan beds for early, middle of the season and late varieties.
Most vegetables require at least 6 hours of sunlight per day, some need 8. Some quick growers like lettuce and radish can be grown between the rows of plants that take longer to mature, like beet or corn, thus making full use of the area available.
Throughout dry periods, vegetable gardens need extra watering. Most vegetables benefit from an inch or more of water each week, especially when they are fruiting.
During the growing season watch for insect pests. If you discover a bug problem early it will be much easier, but be careful to not use pesticides once the vegetable are close to being picked unless it becomes an absolute necessity. Organic gardening is one healthy and environment-friendly option. Once you have reaped your crop, put the vegetable waste into your compost pile so that it can be recycled for next spring.
It is important to protect your vegetable garden from wild animals looking for a tasty treat. Make sure your garden is surrounded by a fence that will keep out dogs, rabbits, and other animals. The harm done by wandering animals during one season can equal the cost of a fence. A fence also can serve as a frame for peas, beans, tomatoes, and other crops that need support.
Protection is needed in order for your vegetable garden to yield a bountiful harvest. Hard work will pay dividends if necessary precautions have been made.
Vegetable Gardening Tips
Sunday, 4 May 2008
How To Really Start The Vegetable Garden
First of all, draw a plan (to a scale) of the ground at your disposal. Make allowances for paths, borders, etc. It's fascinatingly interesting after you get started. Next, take inventory of your likes and dislikes in vegetables. Put down on paper every vegetable you wish to grow. Then go back to your plan and mark out a definite space or number of rows for the different vegetables. Select early, midseason and late sorts of these vegetables, which you like best. This will give you a constant supply of them. When garden operations start, be sure to follow your plan. A disregard of your carefully planned program may easily spoil results. I can not lay too much emphasis upon this point, since most gardens fail to yield satisfactory crops for lack of adherence to the original plan.
Study the peculiar characteristics of certain vegetables and utilize them to best advantage. Some vegetables thrive even in partially shaded positions, while others require lots of sunshine for best results. Some of the finest lettuce I ever saw was grown between rows of early peas. The two-foot tall pea vines, rows running east and west would shelter Wayahead, Black Seeded Simpson, etc., which form perfect heads.
Though the pea rows were standing only 2 1/2 feet apart, the lettuce did splendidly since peas root deeply while lettuce is a shallow, rooting plant. Keeping the lettuce row free from weeds gives additional cultivation to the pea. vines, which will, under such conditions, stand considerable dryweather and still bear heavy crops.
A good many vegetables are of exceedingly slow growth during the seedling stage of development. Take advantage of this by utilizing space between such rows for quick-growing crops. For example, sow beet seed by middle of April and set young lettuce plants between the rows. By the time the beet tops develop, the lettuce will be used.
A distance of 20 inches between the rows is ample for most vegetables in a carefully managed home garden. Tall peas, tomatoes and corn should be allowed at least 2 to 2 1/2 feet and should be staked for best results. The proper thinning out of all, kinds of vegetables is advisable. Do not permit root crops to crowd each other in the row. Thin out radishes, beets, onions, turnips, etc., to stand about from 2 to 4 inches apart in the row, according to variety. Beans will yield more and better pods if plants stand 4 to 6 inches apart in the row.
Where space is rather limited; the French method of intensive cultivation may be employed. Here is how it is practiced:
Combine a packet of spinach seed and carrot seed, mixing seeds thoroughly. Make your row uniformly half an inch deep and sow this mixture in the row. Cover, and soon the quick-growing spinach seed will break the crust, making it easier for the weak carrot seedlings to see the light of day. In four weeks, the spinach may be "thinned" to make room for the slowly developing carrots. In six weeks the spinach -will be all used up, and the carrots will find room to develop. If an early carrot, such as Early Scarlet Horn, is selected, this will be ready for the table use by July 15th, when the last may be pulled to make room for endive, celery, late cabbage or any other fall crop.
This method may be employed with quite a number of vegetables. Care should be taken in experimenting along these lines, that kinds are combined having seed of about the same coarseness, but possessing different characteristics as to growth. Lettuce and radishes go well together, so do radishes and parsley; the last named being a exceedingly slow grower. The French gardeners plant extra early radishes, midseason lettuce and turnips` in, the same row, at one operation. This gives about as ideal a succession as can be worked out.
As to the actual location of the different rows and crops, here is a good rule to, follow:
If the land runs east and west the taller plantings should be on the north, so that the light will not be shut off from the lower growing vegetables. Corn grows so much taller than anything else cultivated that it should, if possible, be placed in the. rear. In front of it the few hills of early potatoes which it is possible to grow on a city lot may be planted, as they are the least ornamental of vegetables.
Cabbage and cauliflowers grow of corresponding height, and may be planted side by side and given the same treatment. Tomatoes may follow the potatoes, and so on in the order of height until the front of the garden is reached, and such ornamental vegetables as remain may be placed.
Source: http://www.backyardgardener.com/veg/indexkitchen.html
Study the peculiar characteristics of certain vegetables and utilize them to best advantage. Some vegetables thrive even in partially shaded positions, while others require lots of sunshine for best results. Some of the finest lettuce I ever saw was grown between rows of early peas. The two-foot tall pea vines, rows running east and west would shelter Wayahead, Black Seeded Simpson, etc., which form perfect heads.
Though the pea rows were standing only 2 1/2 feet apart, the lettuce did splendidly since peas root deeply while lettuce is a shallow, rooting plant. Keeping the lettuce row free from weeds gives additional cultivation to the pea. vines, which will, under such conditions, stand considerable dryweather and still bear heavy crops.
A good many vegetables are of exceedingly slow growth during the seedling stage of development. Take advantage of this by utilizing space between such rows for quick-growing crops. For example, sow beet seed by middle of April and set young lettuce plants between the rows. By the time the beet tops develop, the lettuce will be used.
A distance of 20 inches between the rows is ample for most vegetables in a carefully managed home garden. Tall peas, tomatoes and corn should be allowed at least 2 to 2 1/2 feet and should be staked for best results. The proper thinning out of all, kinds of vegetables is advisable. Do not permit root crops to crowd each other in the row. Thin out radishes, beets, onions, turnips, etc., to stand about from 2 to 4 inches apart in the row, according to variety. Beans will yield more and better pods if plants stand 4 to 6 inches apart in the row.
Where space is rather limited; the French method of intensive cultivation may be employed. Here is how it is practiced:
Combine a packet of spinach seed and carrot seed, mixing seeds thoroughly. Make your row uniformly half an inch deep and sow this mixture in the row. Cover, and soon the quick-growing spinach seed will break the crust, making it easier for the weak carrot seedlings to see the light of day. In four weeks, the spinach may be "thinned" to make room for the slowly developing carrots. In six weeks the spinach -will be all used up, and the carrots will find room to develop. If an early carrot, such as Early Scarlet Horn, is selected, this will be ready for the table use by July 15th, when the last may be pulled to make room for endive, celery, late cabbage or any other fall crop.
This method may be employed with quite a number of vegetables. Care should be taken in experimenting along these lines, that kinds are combined having seed of about the same coarseness, but possessing different characteristics as to growth. Lettuce and radishes go well together, so do radishes and parsley; the last named being a exceedingly slow grower. The French gardeners plant extra early radishes, midseason lettuce and turnips` in, the same row, at one operation. This gives about as ideal a succession as can be worked out.
As to the actual location of the different rows and crops, here is a good rule to, follow:
If the land runs east and west the taller plantings should be on the north, so that the light will not be shut off from the lower growing vegetables. Corn grows so much taller than anything else cultivated that it should, if possible, be placed in the. rear. In front of it the few hills of early potatoes which it is possible to grow on a city lot may be planted, as they are the least ornamental of vegetables.
Cabbage and cauliflowers grow of corresponding height, and may be planted side by side and given the same treatment. Tomatoes may follow the potatoes, and so on in the order of height until the front of the garden is reached, and such ornamental vegetables as remain may be placed.
Source: http://www.backyardgardener.com/veg/indexkitchen.html
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